Why the Material Matters More Than the Look

Most people choose a gate on style, then discover the practical consequences later. A timber gate that looks perfect on a bright June afternoon can sag, swell and demand attention every winter. A metal gate that feels reassuringly solid may need posts and hinges considerably heavier than you budgeted for.

The good news is that both wrought iron and timber make excellent gates in the right setting. The trick is matching the material to your opening, your exposure to the weather, and how much time you genuinely want to spend looking after it.

Weight, Posts and Hinges

This is where the two materials diverge most sharply, and where many DIY installations go wrong.

Genuine wrought iron is rarely used for new gates today; what most suppliers sell as "wrought iron" is mild steel, often galvanised and powder-coated. Either way, metal gates are heavy. A single 900mm wide, 1.2m high steel gate can easily weigh 25–40kg, and a tall double gate can top 100kg. That weight has to be carried by the posts and hinges, not by the latch.

• Metal gates generally need 100mm x 100mm steel posts set in concrete, or masonry walls in sound condition. Hinges should be adjustable and rated well above the gate's actual weight.
• Timber gates are lighter, but a wide softwood gate still generates considerable leverage. Posts of at least 100mm x 100mm, set 600mm into concrete, are a sensible minimum. A concrete spur post works well where the timber post can be bolted to a rot-proof spur below ground.

Whichever you choose, hang the gate on the strongest part of the structure and keep the span as narrow as practical. Two 900mm gates will always outperform one 1.8m gate.

Maintenance: Honest Timekeeping

Neither material is maintenance free, but the work is different in character.

Timber needs protection. A softwood gate in a sheltered garden will want a fresh coat of preservative or stain every 18 months to two years; one facing driving rain and full sun may need annual attention. Check the bottom rail and the base of the stiles each spring, because that is where rot starts. Hardwoods such as oak, iroko or sapele last longer and hold their finish better, but they cost considerably more and still need oiling.

Powder-coated steel or aluminium gates need very little day-to-day care. Wash them down occasionally and touch in any chips or scratches promptly, since bare metal will rust. Galvanised gates that have been properly finished can go a decade or more with only cosmetic attention. If you dislike painting, that is a strong argument in favour of metal.

Security and Privacy

A gate's security comes from its fixings and its surroundings more than its material, but each has strengths.

• Metal gates resist cutting and forced entry well, particularly when the frame is reinforced and the hinge pins are non-removable. They are hard to climb quietly.
• Timber gates offer solid privacy, which metal rarely matches unless it is fitted with infill panels. A close-boarded timber gate blocks sightlines completely, which many homeowners value more than they expect.

For either type, fit a good quality lock or latch, ideally with a bolt at the top and bottom on taller gates. Think about which way the gate opens: outward-opening gates can sometimes be lifted off their hinges unless you specify security hinges or add a lockable drop bolt.

Style, Boundaries and Planning

Style is where personal taste rightly wins. Timber suits cottage gardens, rural properties and period homes, and it weathers gracefully. Metal frames look sharp against brick, render and contemporary landscaping, and they allow views through without feeling flimsy.

Think about the boundary as a whole. A metal gate in a timber fence can look deliberate if the posts and rails are consistent; mismatched heights and colours rarely do. If your property is in a conservation area or is listed, check before you change a gate, and note that gates over 2 metres high, or over 1 metre where they open onto a highway, may need permission. In exposed coastal or upland spots, salty air and wind will shorten the life of both materials, so choose galvanised metal or a durable hardwood.

Cost Over the Long Term

Timber is usually cheaper to buy. A typical softwood gate might cost a fraction of a comparable steel one, but the gap narrows once you add posts, hinges, and years of stain and preservative. Hardwood or bespoke joinery can approach metal prices.

Metal costs more upfront, particularly if you want hand-forged detailing or a bespoke size, but it tends to hold its value and its appearance with far less input. Over fifteen years, a well-finished metal gate may work out cheaper than a softwood gate replaced twice.

Whichever you choose, buy the best posts and hinges you can afford. They outlast the gate itself, and upgrading them later is far more disruptive than fitting them first.