Walk down any residential street in Britain and you will spot them: gates that sag, latches that need a shoulder to shift, hinges that shriek across the cul-de-sac every time someone comes home. The timber or metal panels themselves are usually fine. What lets a gate down is the hardware — the hinges, latches, bolts and catches that take the full force of every swing, slam and season.
Our weather is the main culprit. A dry, warm July bakes moisture out of timber and thickens old grease into a gum-like paste. Then October arrives with driving rain, and any bare steel starts to bloom with orange rust. By January, a hinge that moved freely in summer can be stiff enough to wrench the screws clean out of the post. The fix is not complicated, but it does need doing twice a year: a proper clean, a fresh dose of lubrication, and a few minutes spent checking that everything still lines up. Once in spring, once in autumn, and your gate will outlast most of the fences around it.
Spring is your reset. The worst of the wet has passed, wood is beginning to dry out, and you can see exactly what winter has done. Set aside an hour per gate and work through it methodically.
Not all oils are equal, and the wrong one can make things worse. General-purpose light oil is fine for flushing out dirt, but it washes away quickly in rain, which is why so many gates squeak again by November.
For the pivot points themselves, a white lithium grease or a marine-grade water-resistant grease is a far better choice. It clings to the pin, resists being washed off and stays put through wet weather. Apply it sparingly with a small brush or the nozzle on the tube, working it into the top and bottom of each hinge barrel, then swing the gate a few times to spread it.
For latches, bolts and the sliding surfaces of a drop bolt, a dry lubricant such as a PTFE or silicone spray is often better than grease. Dry films do not collect grit, so a latch that lives near a gravel path will not grind itself to death. Keep grease for hinges and dry spray for everything else — that is the simplest rule to remember.
One thing to avoid: engine oil or thick three-in-one left to congeal. It turns into a sticky trap for dust and makes the hinge stiffer than it was before.
Autumn is the important one, and it is the service most people skip. Do it before the first proper storm, ideally on a dry day in late September or October. The routine mirrors spring, but with an emphasis on protection rather than repair.
Most stiffness and scraping is really an alignment issue. A gate hangs on two or three hinges; over a year or two the top hinge carries more than its share and the whole panel drops a few millimetres.
On an adjustable hinge, the fix is straightforward: loosen the locking nut and turn the pin or the eccentric cam to lift the gate back into line. On a fixed hinge, you can often shim the bottom hinge outward with a thin packer behind the plate, or move the top hinge slightly. Where the gate has dropped badly, a diagonal brace or a turnbuckle on a timber gate will pull it back square and take the strain off the hardware.
If a latch no longer lines up, resist the temptation to chisel out the keep straight away. Sort the hinges first, then adjust the strike plate by a millimetre or two if it still needs it. Nine times out of ten, a latch that will not catch is a hinge that has moved.
Twice a year is all it takes: a spring clean and re-oil, an autumn protection pass, and a two-minute check of the fixings and alignment on both occasions. Add a quick inspection after any storm or long frost, and you will catch problems while they are still cheap to fix.
A well-kept gate is quietly satisfying. It closes with a soft click instead of a bang, the latch works with one hand, and nothing screeches at seven in the morning. Bought hardware will last a decade or more if you look after it — and the few minutes you spend with a brush and a tube of grease each season are far easier than replacing a hinge in February.